A Guide to Optimizing Your Bearded Dragon Enclosure Setup

It is a very rewarding experience to recreate an animal’s natural habitat so that it can live comfortably as your new beloved pet. You essentially get to become the creator of an environment of its own which must sustain and accommodate the needs of that animal. This type of setup is usually required for all types of fish and reptiles. This includes bearded dragons, which are a fantastic reptile to keep and can be very enjoyable. As an owner, you have an enormous responsibility to ensure the welfare of your dragon and maintain the optimal environmental conditions at all times. To do this you will require the following:

A reptile tank
Substrate
Lighting
Basking rock or perch
Hideaway shelte
Food/water
Other accessories

The size of the tank required will depend on its age, size and species. From now on, ‘Bearded Dragon’ and the nickname ‘beardie’ will refer to the most commonly found species of dragon in the pet trade, the Inland Bearded Dragon.

An appropriately sized tank is necessary to keep your beardie active, alert and happy. This is important as this is where your beardie will spend most of his time. It’s recommended that an adult be housed in a 180 gallon tank. Baby and juvenile bearded dragons do not require as much space, however young beardies don’t stay young forever so investing in a quality tank from the start will save you the expense of upgrading later.

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To allow your bearded dragon to feel safe and secure, you should also make sure you cover a wall of the tank with a non see-through material.

Substrate is an essential item in your enclosure. It is used to make cleaning the tank quick and easy and to provide a surface in which your pet can run and rest on comfortably. It also prevents the floor, which is usually made of glass, from overheating and burning your dragon. It absorbs fluid and some contain and absorb odors and supply nutritional benefits if consumed.

Bearded dragons are cold-blooded creatures which mean they require an external heat source to help regulate their body temperature. To do this you will need to provide an artificial light that gives off UVA and UVB rays. The light should be out of reach of your bearded dragon to prevent burns occurring but be close enough to maintain an appropriate heat.

With this said you will need to add a basking rock, branch or other perch to allow your bearded dragon to bask. This is a natural behavior which they have often been seen to do on roads and highways in Australia. Yes, this can be highly dangerous, but really points out how necessary it is for beardie survival. In saying this however, they also need shade. This gives them a place to cool down when they get too hot. In fact they’re usually seen moving between the hot and cool areas of their enclosure on a regular basis. This is how they maintain their body temperature and is a perfectly normal behavior.

This outlines the major items required in an enclosure. However no bearded dragon can live without food and water. Providing a food and water dish is a good way to keep the enclosure clean and keep it looking tidy.

Bearded dragons are fairly easy to keep happy. As long as they have plenty of space, heat, shade, food and water you and your beardie should enjoy many years together. You might even like to add some extra accessories to the enclosure such as extra branches, rocks, caves, plants, etc. These can be very appealing and will only improve the living conditions of your dragon.

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The best way to keep reptile pets is to keep them in reptile vivariums. Reptile vivariums are one of the most basic reptile habitats to set up. It is very important that reptile habitats are set up properly and with good quality materials, especially if your pet reptile has a long life span. When setting up a place for your buddy, there are some things you must consider aside from your companion’s life span. You will have to put different kinds of accessories it their habitat to make them feel at home and at ease. The temperature setting of the vivarium would also differ on your pet’s needs. You will also have to consider your pet’s age. If you have a growing reptile pet, then it is best to purchase a big reptile tank. The most important tip I can give you before you setup reptile vivariums is to research about your pet’s needs, life style, habits, and habitat requirements. If you know your pet well, you can avoid wasting money on things you won’t need for your pet’s reptile vivarium.

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Once you have researched what your pet needs, it’s time to choose the perfect reptile habitat that would best suit him. There are different kinds of reptile vivariums. The most common ones are these:

1. Plastic Reptile Vivariums

These are probably the cheapest kind of reptile habitat, depending on the quality of plastic though. This is the best choice for adult-sized reptiles that won’t grow anymore and are not strong enough to break the plastic walls of the reptile habitat. This is also a good choice for reptile pets that don’t need to live in high temperatures.

2. Wooden Reptile Vivariums

These are probably the most common reptile vivarium suitable for lizards and other cold blooded reptiles. Wooden reptile vivariums are excellent choice because it traps in heat like a sauna. Therefore, it helps you save electricity and money. Lizards would also love to walk on the solid and non-transparent walls of a wooden reptile habitat. They can also enjoy the privacy available inside it.

3. Glass Reptile Vivariums

In my opinion, these are the classiest-looking vivariums. If you are keeping reptiles as a trophy or a collection, it’s best to show off your collection in a nice looking reptile habitat. It provides good ventilation because most glass habitats prove removable wire mesh top or ventilation hood. If you are planning on purchasing a glass reptile habitat, you must buy cave-like accessories to provide your pet some privacy and a sanctuary.

Now that you know how to select the right reptile house for your pet, choose wisely, save money, and provide the best living environment for your pet.

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So, you have decided you want an iguana as a pet, but do you know what it entails to house a reptile that can sometimes be moody and aggressive? You will find that you need to prepare a lot of space for it. It is possible that housing an iguana will cost more than buying the animal itself.

When you are thinking of getting an iguana cage for your new pet, it doesn’t necessarily have to be made of wire, as the word “cage” suggests. It can be housed in a glass, Perspex or wooden enclosure as long as it can protect your pet from danger and live comfortably. If building a wooden cage, aromatic woods like cedar contain oils that are toxic should be avoided.

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It is important to remember that they can grow very rapidly in the first few months of their lives. You should prepare a large enough enclosure so that you don’t wind up changing cages every 2 weeks! Most shops recommend a 20 gallon aquarium tank as a starter iguana enclosure.

The material which you use to line your iguana cage should be selected with care as well. It is absolutely imperative for you to avoid particulate lining materials such as soil, gravel, soil and rocks. All this can be eaten by your iguana and cause a potentially fatal obstruction when impacted in the intestines. A good lining material is newspaper or artificial grass.

Your pet will also appreciate it greatly if you provide a little hiding place for it in its cage. It doesn’t have to be anything fancy; any container that is big enough for your pet to enter and turn around in will do just fine.

When you’re looking for an iguana cage for you reptile, don’t even think of skimping on size. You wouldn’t want to be confined to a tiny box, and neither does your pet!

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Terrariums are a great project for kids because they encompass a lot of different things yet are not too hard of a project to make. This article gives you great ideas for terrarium making for kids of all ages and includes learning materials, container selection, plant selection, care, and more.

There are two basic types of terrariums and you can tailor the type you make to the age and skill level of the child. The first type of terrarium is an open dish type. This is simply an arrangement of plants in an open container. It can be a dish, bowl or just about any type of container that will hold at least a quart of soil.  This type is the easiest to make and the easiest to care for.

The second type of terrarium is the closed style.  It is completely enclosed in a jar, glass, or container. This type is much more attractive and fascinating but it is also more challenging to make and to maintain. This type of terrarium is also very well suited for explaining how an eco system works because it is a closed eco system.

The Perfect Compromise for a Container

A perfect compromise of closed and open terrarium is one that is made inside a large cookie jar. This is the type of glass cookie jar that has a large metal cover with a knob on it.  The cover is usually offset at an angle to the side. They usually hold about a gallon to a gallon and a half of liquid.

This container is perfect because the very large mouth makes it easy to put plants and other materials into it. And the easily removable metal lid makes it easy for a child to reach in and prune or water the plants.  And if the terrarium has been over watered the child can just leave the cover off for a couple of days. This will evaporate a lot of the excess water.

 If you do not have one of these glass cookie jars here are some guidelines for choosing an alternate container.  Choose a large container that is glass or plastic (preferably clear plastic if the project is for younger children) and insure it has a very large mouth opening so little hands can reach easily into it. Then finally, choose something with an easily removable lid. This will allow you to cover it for a closed system but also to remove it if it is over watered.

Plant Selection

You have a lot of options when it comes to selecting plants. If you want plants that will be very hardy and very durable you should consider using succulents or cacti.  They generally have a very high tolerance for sunlight and do not need a lot of watering.  (You can let the soil dry out before watering it again). They also generally require very little pruning or maintenance.  So they are a good choice for younger children – just avoid any cactus with dangerous or harmful spikes and thorns.

For older children you can use almost any small type of plant that can be bought in a home improvement store or nursery. Select plants that are labeled as hardy, and grow to less than six inches in height.  Keep all the information tags that come with them so you always have a reference for sunlight and watering.

The third alternative to plants (and the one I like the best) is to go for a hike and dig some up.  This adds a wonderful dimension of discovery to the terrarium.  Select small plants in a wide variety of shapes and sizes and choose them all from the same area. If they are all growing in a relatively small area you increase the chances that they will thrive in the little eco system you create in a jar or bottle. 

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Final Thoughts about Plant selection

I recommend you purchase or find an odd number of plants. An odd number of plants generally makes for a more pleasing arrangement than an even number.  It has a more artistic look to it.  I also recommend you choose plants in a variety of shapes, sizes and colors; if the plants are different heights and colors the terrarium will be much more interesting to look at.  Finally, if you are purchasing plants, be sure they all have the same basic requirements as far as watering and sunlight is concerned. Being all in the same container they will all have the same amount of light and water so if they all have the same requirements you can treat the arrangement as one entity and not have to try to treat each plant differently.

Making the Terrarium

Here is the process for making the actual terrarium. You can vary from this process and I will point this out.

Put a layer of pebbles in the bottom of the container. Make it about one inch thick. This will allow for good drainage.

Put a layer of activated charcoal right on top of the pebbles approximately one half inch thick. This will filter the water. (This step is totally optional)

Put a layer of Sphagnum moss on top of the charcoal. Sphagnum moss is a dried and wiry material and what this does is act like a barrier so the soil does not slip down into the rocks at the bottom. (This is optional but recommended if you want a cleaner and sharper looking terrarium)

Put a layer of soil on the top of all of this.  The layer should be at least two or three inches thick but you can vary this according to the size of your container.

Poke small holes into the soil and transplant your plants into the container.

Place some miniature colored stones or figurines in the container for an interesting look.

Water it a moderate amount and cover it. Now just monitor it over the next few days. If it needs more water then add. If it is too wet then keep the cover off so it can evaporate.

A Thought about the Plant arrangement

Before you actually transplant the plants into your terrarium you should arrange them on a table. Move all the pots near each other then move them around to find an arrangement that is pleasing to the eye. Once you find an arrangement you like you then just transfer that to the container.

Learning Lesson for kids: Terrariums as an ecosystem

A terrarium is a miniature ecosystem which is a complex system of relationships between organisms and resources of different types. The predominant organisms in your terrarium ecosystem are plants and the micro-organisms in the soil. The major resources are water, sunlight, and soil.  These all work together to form a miniature little system that can sustain itself for long periods of time. If you have a good balance of plants, soil, nutrients, and water in your terrarium you will be able to seal it up and watch it grow and thrive for very long periods of time – sometimes even years.

The ecosystem inside your container is very similar to that in the real world. There is water accumulated in the soil and in the pebbles and sunlight will cause this water to evaporate and form droplets along the sides and top of the container. These drops will grow larger and then fall back into the soil. This is a circular process that will continue as long as there is water and sunlight and this rhythm will bring a constant supply of moisture and nutrients to your plants.  And if you have put activated charcoal in your terrarium it acts as a filter. As the water passes through the charcoal all the impurities are trapped so the water is more pure for the next cycle.  In the real world the same thing happens when it rains. Water is evaporated up to the clouds then released back down in the form of rain. It is a continuous cycle just like inside your container.  

Caring for your terrarium

A terrarium needs to be watched carefully for the first week. This is to insure it is getting the right amount of light and water. If you purchased your plants you should look at the tags that came with them and follow the watering and lighting instructions. If you found your plants outdoors you should try to simulate the environment they were found in.  Were they in an open field with lots of sunlight? If so then give them lots of sunlight.  Were they in a forested area with only moderate light? Then keep them in a window that only gets moderate amounts of light.  Finally, if you found the plants yourself, were they in rich and moist soil or dry soil? Simulate this when watering.

Watering

For the first week you should watch your plants very carefully.  Are water droplets forming on the glass? If so, this is great! But if the soil seems soggy then you might have over watered so you should take the cover off for a couple of days and let it dry out a bit. If the soil is dry and very few droplets are forming you should add a little bit of water. But if you are using cactus and other desert plants it will be ok to let the soil get a bit dry.  After about a week with the plants looking pretty good you can be confident that the cover can stay on it for long periods of time. And if sunlight only comes into the terrarium from one particular side (like in a window) you should rotate the terrarium every couple of days to ensure the plants don’t all grow at an angle pointing toward the window. Rotating the terrarium will force the plants to grow straight up.

Pruning and Trimming

Over the course of time the plants in the container will grow and you can reach in there and trim them gently with a small pair of safety scissors. This will keep it attractive looking and will keep the balance of the ecosystem.

A terrarium is a wonderful project for kids to make and it is a living system that will bring a child much enjoyment both in the making of one and the long term caring for one. It is a great opportunity for children to learn about plants and eco systems and it’s a great project because it doesn’t take too much effort or care to maintain. It is a closed system that will thrive with very little care.

This excerpt from “Tarantulas in the Terrarium” takes you on a field trip to Aquatic Critter, a large reptile and fish store in Nashville, to take a look at popular cages used to house tarantulas, plus substrate, hiding places, heating devices and other reptile supplies useful in keeping tarantulas. Presented by Exotic Fauna.com in partnership with Tarantulas.com.
Video Rating: 4 / 5

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People who own green iguanas often have certain misconceptions about them. These myths could interfere with a person’s ability to take proper care of a green iguana. Some of these myths may not be too harmful. However, some of these myths could be dangerous to a green iguana’s health and well-being. Here are some common myths about green iguanas which you should know about:

You can feed lettuce to green iguanas – This myth has some truth to it. Of course, since green iguanas are best kept on a vegetarian diet, you can feed it lettuce. However, you should realize the fact that most types of salad lettuce have very little nutritional value. Some people realize this when it’s already too late to change the iguana’s diet. This is because a green iguana which is mainly fed lettuce will continue to eat lettuce even if better foods are added to its diet.

If you want to take proper care of your green iguana, you should feed it vegetables that have a high nutritional value. Examples include collards, turnip greens and mustard greens.

Iguanas will not outgrow their cages – Some people think that keeping iguanas in small cages will cause their growths to be stunted. These people provide small cages for their iguanas in order to keep it in a convenient size. This will definitely not help your green iguana. A green iguana, when properly taken care of, can grow up to six feet long. This means that keeping it in a small cage will only accomplish the feat of making your green iguana’s life very uncomfortable.

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Iguanas need to consume gravel in order to help their digestion – this is a very dangerous myth. Some people add gravel or small pebbles to an iguana’s enclosure because they think that these help a green iguana to digest its food. However, you should realize that gravel or any such material could kill your green iguana if it is consumed. You should try to avoid feeding your green iguana these materials, whether by accident or on purpose.

Hot rocks are great for heating – some people add hot rocks to a green iguana enclosure, thinking that these rocks are good for an iguana’s body temperature. What you need to remember is that green iguanas are cold blooded. This means that if a green iguana sits on a hot rock, it can literally be cooked to death. If you wish to provide proper heating for a green iguana enclosure, you should use special lighting available in most pet stores.

Iguanas can eat insects, pet food, and other animal products – Many sources today still state that iguanas should be given animal protein as part of their diet. However, the truth is that green iguanas are best suited to an herbivorous diet. The body and metabolism of a green iguana is designed to utilize plant proteins effectively. Animal proteins, on the other hand, can prove to be very troubling to them. Consumption of animal proteins can cause your green iguana to develop gout. It can also lead to serious kidney problems. The only reason that iguanas eat insects in the wild is because these get mixed up with their food accidentally.

These are just some of the myths that you may have heard about green iguanas. By knowing the truth about these myths, you are now equipped to give the best care possible to a green iguana.

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In the house, the best would be to get an iguanas cage around 100X80X40 cm minimum. It is crucial the enclosure is safe, considering that iguanas are professional escapist. The walls should be smooth and also continuous (don’t use wire) to avoid abrasions and maintain warm.

The substrate might be big cut bark, synthetic grass, newspapers, recycled paper or also it may be carpeting. Using aquarium rocks, wooden chips, sand or cedar chips, could be harmful for the reason that if it is eaten could cause severe damage or even death in your pet.

They are actually arboreal, therefore it is suggested to decorate the iguanas cage using stones, limbs as well as unnatural vegetation (non-toxic) so the iguana can easily climb and take pleasure in the place. Containers might be set inverted so your pet uses the place in order to hide out and feeling secure.

It has to give a container having water in order that the iguana can drink and also to aid keep humidity. You also need to spray the area and also the pet daily particularly in summer time and 2 or 3 times per week in winter season. This can help your pet in the act of changing the skin. Preferably, provide them with a warm bath at least one time per month inside a bathtub or maybe a large container where your iguana may swim. During winter season, be careful with all the modifications of temperatures after complete bath.

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The lighting and the temperature are essential for the upkeep of the iguanas since they’re poikilotherms animals, I am talking about, their own body temperature changes based on temperature of the surroundings. Because they are a cold-blooded animal, requirements lots of sunshine and high level of moisture to manage their own body temperature. They need an every day amount of light of some hours (in winter could be less), that has to be done for the correct synthesis of supplement D and calcium. There is no unnatural source of light that cab substitute sunshine. It’s perfect to permit the iguana have fun with the normal sunshine at least two times per week for intervals of quarter-hour minimum. The process should get the pet from the enclosure and then putting a belt or into a cage where he cannot get away. It’s important to utilize tubes for reptiles full range (UVA and also UVB). Through the night, it is advisable to use infrared lighting to prevent changing the actual photoperiod, providing to your pet a light-dark suitable period.

The iguanas are tropical animals, so they need a relative humidity around 50%-70%. When the humidity is too reduced, we can increase it by using some environmental humidifiers. The temperatures ought to range from 25 to 30 C and may decrease to 20 C overnight. To keep the actual temperatures and get a thermal gradient, we could use hot stones, lamps or spots of various types.

These reptiles can be kept in couples (male and female), or a number of females mutually. But never share place several males because they will fight and may harmed as well as killed each other, because of the iguanas are extremely territorial creatures and become stressed with the existence of some other iguana. That’s the reason why it shouldn’t keep several males within the same place, unless you have enough space. Because of this reason, avoid decorative mirrors and materials which can be reflected.

The iguanas cage ought to be cleaned and disinfected regularly; fecal material and particles of food should be eliminated each and every day.

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When I was making my first cage my wife Cheryl came out into the shed and asked me what I was doing. I mumbled or grunted something about “building snake cage” whilst earnestly trying to figure out some small detail or putting in an annoying screw (I’m not sure which), to which she rolled her eyes and ambled back into the house – I believe shaking her head and possibly rolling her eyes.

Anyway, I wanted to make a good cage. I had made one already but it was far too small as I had divided it into two sections by placing a timber divider in the middle. It cut the cage in half and was close enough to the floor to prevent interaction while leaving enough space to slide a heat mat under. It covered about 1/2 to 2/3 of the cage either side of the middle.

I decided to do it that way as it cheaper than making two cages and the two children’s pythons were still small, having just graduated from the plastic containers. (When I housed them in the plastic containers I used small terracotta plant bases for their hides. I cut a little out of the side of the base for the entrance – this is a good tip for juveniles and young snakes or lizards)

I housed the two juvenile carpet pythons in that cage, one each side, but as they grew I knew I needed to make another cage.

So I did some research and with a bit of help from pet shops and some research on the web I was able to come up with what I thought was a simple snake cage plan.

A snake cage design that:

- was easy to make

- was strong

- looked good

- had appropriate thermal properties

- had easy access

- was lockable

- was easily maintained.

I suppose I should back up a bit and tell you how I made the first snake cage. Having two juvenile snakes about to graduate from their small plastic cages meant I needed accommodation. Initially I thought I had to make two snake cages with two sets of heat mats, thermostats (I know there are alternatives), lighting and twice the amount of materials.

So I decided, after multiple diagrams and fiddling about, to make one cage and divide it in half. I still needed to heat both sides. I placed a divider in the cage. It was close enough to the floor to prevent the snakes going underneath yet high enough to allow the Flexiwatt heat pad to slide underneath.

I also made the divider so that it fitted in the cage exactly but only held in place by screws. These screws could then be removed if I wanted to make the cage larger and build a second cage.

I made a number of mistakes with this cage.

The front was glass but it was fitted and did not slide or move. There were two hinged lids on top, one for each side. As I had no experience, it didn’t occur to me that his was a poor design. I soon found that it was. I should have at least made a door at the front, either sliding or drop down. The top door was a good idea, but not on its own.

I chose to make the door on my new cage a single drop down door for a number of reasons.

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First and foremost was ease. I didn’t have to slide the door and get a reptile from the other end as the snakes don’t move out of the cage very quickly. If you have dragons or frisky reptiles it is better to have either a sliding door or two drop downs or, alternatively a combination ie a drop down door at the front with a hinged roof on top. This allows ease of access from above to retrieve the reptiles and also ease of access from the front for cleaning and accessorizing.

Drop down doors are the easiest to make and the most forgiving of mistakes, particularly plexiglass. Drop down glass doors and sliding doors require a little more effort, and time. If you have limited room, a sliding door is much more satisfactory. All my subsequent cages have sliding doors but that is a personal choice.

As I had carpet pythons, I did not need to have a UV light – usually you can use supplements to provide any extra dietary needs with snakes. If I had wanted to put in a UV light for a lizard in the first reptile cage I made, I would have had some difficulty because the hinged roof and fixed front would have made the angle of access when installing a light difficult. I had effectively eliminated half the roof and could not access the back of the cage roof easily. The light fitting should have been installed at the same stage as the half roof – something I neglected to think of at the time.

I also chose to make my own heat mats using Flexwatt. My first commercial mat was far too hot and buckled one of my plastic cages and the timber it was sitting on. I had to throw it out. According to the instructions it was supposed to self regulate and not require a thermostat. It didn’t work. So I decided to make my own heat mat and attach it to a thermostat. No problems so far and the results are far better.

To make the mat, I drilled holes in the back of the snake cage and dismantled an old electrical cord. I attached a plug I bought from the hardware and attached it to one end and I soldered the other ends onto the mat. I wanted to use a detachable plug so I could thread the cord through a small hole in the back of the cage. I wanted the hole to be small enough to prevent escape, even by small snakes.

The soldering was a bit difficult as the soldering iron had not been refurbished ( I have since refurbished it and it works perfectly now – you can find out how to refurbish you soldering iron in my book “How to Build Reptile Enclosures”.)

I also had to drill a small hole in the back of the cage for the thermostat probe, which sat on top of the heat mat. I stuck the heat mat down with some tape but have since used double sided tape or clear duct tape as holds on better and longer.

You can put the heat mat on the base and then placed thin ply or something similar over the top. I have yet to try this method. I have even seen snake cages where tiles were glued and placed over the heat mat, after applying a layer of glue or similar substance. I now use inexpensive vinyl over the heat mat, as it is easily cleaned, and have newspaper or other substrates on top of that again.

Melamine also makes a good base as it is easily washable. Silicone should be placed around the edges to prevent water damage and leakage into the joins, but there is a trick to making a smooth silicone joint.

Placing the lights in the snake cage is relatively easy. I decided that I would place an in-line switch to each light so I could control them from outside the cage without having to scrounge around finding the cord or a switch on a switch board. I have since automated all of these using timers.

I have quite a good range of tools in my shed but I really didn’t need a lot to make the cages. I think for most people, cutting the timber square is one of the biggest issues. There are ways around this so that constructing the cage is relatively easy (you can find these out in the book “How to Build Reptile Enclosures”).

I did a lot of looking around at various cages, trying to determine the best material to build them from. I built mine using MDF. I use it for a number of reasons.

- It has good thermal properties

- It’s easy to use

- It comes out well painted

- It’s easy to sand

- It does not buckle easily

- You can work with relatively thin (1/2″) material making it not too heavy

You do need to be a bit careful cutting it and I would advise using a mask. It can be very dusty.

You also need to be a bit careful putting in screws. Put them in too hard and you damage the hole. They will not hold properly.

I would not advise making a snake or other reptile cage from pine or cedar. These materials can be dangerous to reptiles. A few pieces of pine for framing is fine but not the whole cage.

Another good material is plywood. I do not use it mostly because it can be splintery. It does look good however if you finish it with a timber finish a clear coat.

I also painted my cages (spray paint gives a nice finish). I let them dry out for about a week before I put the animals in there. This is to ensure that the paint has time to cure and that the amount of vapor it releases has declined enough to be no threat to the snakes. You can pop your head in the cage after 4 or 5 days and smell the inside of the cage. When the paint smell has almost gone ,the snake or lizard cage is safe to put the animals in.

After painting it’s just a matter of adding locks, door holders and accessories like climbing branches, rocks, hides, water bowls, fake rock walls and whatever you fancy.

My children’s pythons, blue tongued lizards and bearded dragon now happily live in their respective habitats.

Good Luck.

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When setting up a home for your bearded dragon, there are a number of things you’ll need to be aware of. Firstly, what do we call this makeshift beardie habitat? Well many people refer to it as an enclosure, tank, vivarium or in some cases a terrarium. In reality each variation has a slightly different meaning, however they all generally refer to the same thing and that’s the most important point. Secondly and most importantly you’ll need to setup the enclosure so that it is safe, comfortable and secure. Below are a number of steps to optimizing the enclosure.

• Select and purchase an appropriately sized tank. This needs to be 6 feet long, 2 feet high and approximately 2 feet wide. This is the equivalent of a 180 gallon tank and is necessary to allow your bearded dragon to move, run, bask, climb and hide. As I’m sure you’ve realised, their natural habitat includes open plains, deserts and forests, providing a huge area to roam free, therefore the more space you can provide the better.

• Lay substrate in the bottom of the tank. This is very important as it absorbs liquids and odors and provides a non slippery surface for your dragon to move about on. Be aware though, there are some bad substrates on the market that can actually be very harmful. So do plenty of research and choose carefully!

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• Cover the back wall with a material such as wood, wallpaper (like the kind found in fish tanks) or a more cost effective option is to secure some newspaper on the outer surface. This is to help you dragon feel secure and provides a hideaway from pets or children who might be enjoying the novelty of a pet lizard.

• Provide an adequate source of light and heat. This sort of equipment can be purchased from most pet stores, especially those which specialize in reptiles and fish. As a guideline though, the lighting should give off both UVA and UVB rays and be out of reach from your beardie. Although the heat is essential for their survival, it has also been known to cause severe injury and in a worst case scenario – death.

• Place a basking rock, branch or other perch both under the heat and in a cooler area of the enclosure. This is to accommodate their natural instincts to bask in the sun (they do this to regulate their body temperature) and to climb onto logs or low branches.

• Also ensure your bearded dragon has somewhere to hide. This can be a reptile cave which can be found in pet stores, a hollow log or upside down container. Just make sure it is dark and allows your beardie to completely hide itself from its surroundings.

• Finally, provide a water and food dish. These are essential times for feeding as it helps to keep the tank clean and tide. However if your beardie doesn’t like or use the water container you might opt to just spray him once a day with water instead. This is a good alternative that many keepers choose to use.

This is a general outline on the steps to take when setting up your bearded dragon’s new home. Remember to do further research and inform yourself on the specific requirements to keeping a bearded dragon. There is plenty of information available on the net, in books or from other reptile keepers, you just need to go looking!

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Many of people nowadays has become much more pet admirers and not just normal fanatics but imported pet admirers. Some owners wish to own home pets in order to put in fun and excitement in their homes.

If you want to take care of your animal better than it is necessary that you have enough understanding of that animal and about the behavior of that animal so you might keep him with you in good way. foreign pets have been first produced to changed nations around the globe so make sure you know that they’ve dissimilar wants and atmosphere. Understanding the rules and regulations within your city has relevancy so as to recognize if it is legal to own home pets in your town and as well to know your restrictions.Strange animals came from wide range of nations around the globe so we should realize they also have dissimilar food desires and surroundings orientation. Just be sure you supply the requirements for your home pets to be able to nourish them with your guardianship. It’s important that you are confident you’ll be able to fulfill these requirements prior to fetch your new pet home. Keep in mind to purchase merely to legal and trustworthy sellers that provides excellence and well animals to get rid of restrictions within the regulation.

You may adopt any type of home pets either fish or goats, reptiles or dogs. Tarantulas, cockroach, stick insects, scorpions and hermit crabs.. They’re equally charming animals that can be held in reserve in an aquarium or terrarium. Avid supporters the most popular movie BABE shall be well updated with the joys of pig owning. A specific breed of pigs is excellent to manage as pet and that is Potbellied but there is a thing to keep in mind that some of this breed are big sized than you could think.Home pets are easy to nurture and to look after. It can fascinate and luxury you in addition to to get all your family more bonded. Doing a search before purchasing will assist you evaluate and verify the reputation of your breeding store.

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Bearded dragon is a lizard that belongs to genus Pogona together with 7 other varieties of species. When bearded dragon is attacked or threatened, the skin puffs out into the part of their throat, which resembles to a human beard. That is why they are referred to as bearded dragon. Its spiny head is fundamentally a defense mechanism that makes them appear bigger. This protects them from possible predators. Bearded dragons are now becoming a frequent pet by most people about the globe together with iguanas.

The color of bearded dragons is normally light either tanned or yellowish, which assists them to disguise inside the rocky or woody habitats. The adult lizard may reach from 18 to 24 inch. They are originated in Australia and commonly found in grasslands, woodlands and desserts. As a cold blooded animals, the temperature of their body fluctuates depends on the existing environmental conditions.

Bearded Dragon Habitat

The beaded dragon habitat includes semi-arid, arid or rocky places. The juvenile ones normally spend their creating years in trees, which makes them skilled climbers when they already reached their mature age. Bearded lizards also really like basking within the sun or resting on huge rocks which helps them to normalize the temperature of their body.

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Bearded Dragon Sexual Dimorphism

Throughout their adolescent age, it is typically complex to figure out their sex. However, the bearded dragon sexual dimorphism could be determined when they’re already mature one. The characteristics of male dragon are they’ve a bigger head with bigger and darker beard. The only method to separate male to female is they’ve group of pre-anal holes, that are can not be observed in female.

Bearded Dragon Food & Diet

Bearded dragons are normally omnivores, meaning they feed on a big array of insects and vegetables. In confinement, they can also be offered foods like small mice, insects, leafy greens, squash and carrots. Insects such as mealworms and crickets are great option for them. In addition, there are certain foods that may be added with vegetables and fruits for feeding them. However, studies have done in natural habitat that bearded dragon lizards are herbivores, meaning they eat more on vegetables than insects.

Bearded dragon lizards are sociable pets that can communicate through gestures and signs. They can express messages through dozing their heads, flattering their bodies or opening their mouth. As pets at home, bearded dragons are relatively friendlier and calm than other types of lizard. They are generally curious and enjoy to explore and roam the environment most of the time.
The lifespan of bearded could reach from 7 to 10 years or more. The expectancy of life of the bearded dragon also differs, which based on various factors. Aside from that, bearded dragon lizards are known not to have diseases and healthier compare to other lizards. This makes them an ideal pet that you and your family will enjoy.

In conclusion, Bearded dragons are get pets to have but it is a very good idea to learn all of the information that you can about them.

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